The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked a good looking double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a good looking winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief record of the only substances coming collectively into one thing way more than then sum of their elements.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means which you can add seasonal substances to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized facet of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so you probably have it (and you need to!) be sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her authentic had chard. I take advantage of numerous scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up method again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply a lot of questions right here which may pop up. The ingredient record for this panade couldn’t be easier, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Type of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an efficient, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I may also argue that a number of that is private choice. In the event you bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will probably end in a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the parts. The bread selection is such an enormous deal on this recipe, every one will impression your finish outcome immensely. I discovered the exhausting method once I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured hunch. You need the bread to place up a combat and maintain a little bit of stress. Not go to mush altogether. The perfect model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old selfmade sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve achieved crustless variations earlier than. In the event you determine you like an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. In the event you like your panade to have extra construction, maintain your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we’ve round or within the freezer (defrost). I like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however in the event you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I take advantage of a Completely different Cheeses on this Panade?
You’ll be able to! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that certainly one of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I want barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the very least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which another fillings that I would be capable of pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private choice. After you bake panade a couple of times you’ll begin to get a way of what fashion you like. You’ll be able to go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe beneath goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It appears so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely stunning. It’s the final word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve over time. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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